Reflecting on the City of San Salvador
Psalm 119:156-157
Like all big cities, San Salvador has poverty and wealth. We saw corrugated-tin shanties along the river banks, poor neighborhoods near where we stayed, and on our way to church a youth passed out, sprawled in the middle of a major road. Marco said that he was probably unconscious from huffing chemicals. We also saw nice restaurants, a university, good neighborhoods, upscale shopping districts, malls, modern grocery stores, and super-walmart-style retail. One thing that stood out right away is the security and defenses. Most buildings had metal bars and concertina or barbed wire around the roof. Most stores had armed security with pistols, shotguns, or machetes, including the grocery stores and hardware stores. The souvenir market where we shopped was completely enclosed by a concrete wall and security fence, along with armed guards.
Another set of experiences we had in San Salvador related to the events of the civil war. One of our first visits outside the Synod was to the chapel at a university. The chapel was fairly typical, until we noticed the very large chalk drawings on the back wall, which depicted mutilated, naked, tortured bodies. From the Internet I found this explanation:
While at the University, we saw the memorial museum and rose garden for these victims, which was at the place where they lived and died. We also viewed photo albums of the scenes of their murders. The skulls and brains and blood were a terrible assault on my senses, made worse by the fact that these people were slain for speaking out for justice and peace. One impression that has stuck with me was a diagram in the museum showing the location of the military troops as they took up positions around the priests' residence. They were evenly spread out in what I'm sure was the proper tactics for attacking a building and preventing escape. It stuck with me because it showed the cold and efficient result of society that had become a culture of death, in which someone decided it was a good idea to send a squad of soldiers to kill a house of priests and others.
We visited the church and home of Oscar Romero. Romero is the most famous martyr from the war, and also preached the message of peace and justice. For this he was eventually shot to death during mass in his church.
While in San Salvador we saw the Archibishop Gomez and his wife several times. Marco taught me that we could call him Obispo, which is Spanish for bishop. On Sunday we attended his church. He preached about the government, injustice, and recent events related to gang arrests. He sang happy birthday to Sherry and Denise, and Dale helped serve communion. Several other clergy and mission teams were there from France and Las Vegas. The bishop hosted a reception for all the guests in the courtyard of the church, and our group presented his church with the gift of a guitar.
Near the end of our trip, Bishop Gomez and his wife hosted a dinner party for us at their house. The food and entertainment were excellent. We were served traditional Salvadoran food. Before dinner we all squeezed into the house for a conversation with the Bishop. He talked of his family, and he also shared the story with us about his own kidnapping in 1984 by the death squads. He was held for three days until international pressure secured his release.
Finally, we had a fun night in San Salvador when Marco and Gus took us to a popular pupuseria on a mountainside overlooking the city. A pupuseria is a restaurants that serves pupusas, which seems to be *the* national dish. The restaurant was on a street full of people, music, and artists. We had a great night view of the city lights.
Overall, the city was exciting, depressing, energetic, dangerous, safe, modern, poor, wealthy, saddening, sobering, and fun. Many of the people we encountered there, mainly through the Synod, spoke about the problems their country faces, but demonstrated a passion, hope, and faith in positive changes for the country.
Your compassion is great, O LORD; in accord with your edicts give me life.
Though my persecutors and foes are many I do not turn from your decrees.
San Salvador is the capital of El Salvador, and it is home to about half a million people. It's the fourth largest city in Central America. It's in the center of the country at several thousand feet in elevation. Weather was hot but comfortable. The city was vibrant and busy, with nice views of the surrounding hills and volcanoes. There is lots of chaotic traffic.Though my persecutors and foes are many I do not turn from your decrees.
Like all big cities, San Salvador has poverty and wealth. We saw corrugated-tin shanties along the river banks, poor neighborhoods near where we stayed, and on our way to church a youth passed out, sprawled in the middle of a major road. Marco said that he was probably unconscious from huffing chemicals. We also saw nice restaurants, a university, good neighborhoods, upscale shopping districts, malls, modern grocery stores, and super-walmart-style retail. One thing that stood out right away is the security and defenses. Most buildings had metal bars and concertina or barbed wire around the roof. Most stores had armed security with pistols, shotguns, or machetes, including the grocery stores and hardware stores. The souvenir market where we shopped was completely enclosed by a concrete wall and security fence, along with armed guards.
Another set of experiences we had in San Salvador related to the events of the civil war. One of our first visits outside the Synod was to the chapel at a university. The chapel was fairly typical, until we noticed the very large chalk drawings on the back wall, which depicted mutilated, naked, tortured bodies. From the Internet I found this explanation:
The Stations of the Cross in the chapel at the University of Central America, a Jesuit college in San Salvador, El Salvador, are especially graphic. They portray in unflinching detail, the torture visited upon Salvadorans by right wing death squads and the U. S. backed government during that country's civil war in the 1980s. These stations serve as a reminder that many people walk the way of the cross every day, denied justice and dignity as Christ was, by powerful political forces.
The university was home to six Jesuits who spoke out on behalf of the Salvadoran poor, and advocated a negotiated settlement to the war. On November 16, 1989, these men were dragged from their beds by Salvadoran soldiers and shot in the head with high-powered rifles. The Jesuits' housekeeper and her 15-year-old daughter were also shot to death.
While at the University, we saw the memorial museum and rose garden for these victims, which was at the place where they lived and died. We also viewed photo albums of the scenes of their murders. The skulls and brains and blood were a terrible assault on my senses, made worse by the fact that these people were slain for speaking out for justice and peace. One impression that has stuck with me was a diagram in the museum showing the location of the military troops as they took up positions around the priests' residence. They were evenly spread out in what I'm sure was the proper tactics for attacking a building and preventing escape. It stuck with me because it showed the cold and efficient result of society that had become a culture of death, in which someone decided it was a good idea to send a squad of soldiers to kill a house of priests and others.
We visited the church and home of Oscar Romero. Romero is the most famous martyr from the war, and also preached the message of peace and justice. For this he was eventually shot to death during mass in his church.
While in San Salvador we saw the Archibishop Gomez and his wife several times. Marco taught me that we could call him Obispo, which is Spanish for bishop. On Sunday we attended his church. He preached about the government, injustice, and recent events related to gang arrests. He sang happy birthday to Sherry and Denise, and Dale helped serve communion. Several other clergy and mission teams were there from France and Las Vegas. The bishop hosted a reception for all the guests in the courtyard of the church, and our group presented his church with the gift of a guitar.
Near the end of our trip, Bishop Gomez and his wife hosted a dinner party for us at their house. The food and entertainment were excellent. We were served traditional Salvadoran food. Before dinner we all squeezed into the house for a conversation with the Bishop. He talked of his family, and he also shared the story with us about his own kidnapping in 1984 by the death squads. He was held for three days until international pressure secured his release.
Finally, we had a fun night in San Salvador when Marco and Gus took us to a popular pupuseria on a mountainside overlooking the city. A pupuseria is a restaurants that serves pupusas, which seems to be *the* national dish. The restaurant was on a street full of people, music, and artists. We had a great night view of the city lights.
Overall, the city was exciting, depressing, energetic, dangerous, safe, modern, poor, wealthy, saddening, sobering, and fun. Many of the people we encountered there, mainly through the Synod, spoke about the problems their country faces, but demonstrated a passion, hope, and faith in positive changes for the country.
posted by baldpreacher at 10:33 AM
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